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You could install a water heater in your sleep, right? Well, you've probably had to deal with installations that look like that's what someone did, and they're not a pretty sight. But competition is bottom-line tough.
Energy efficiency: Start with a tank insulated to R-16 or better. You won't need to add a blanket, and the manufacturer will be pleased that you're not hiding tank information and safety stickers. Use extra-long flex lines to connect the tank to existing plumbing. This will allow you to make heat traps in the lines. Make an upside-down "U", at least six inches deep, to stop heated water from floating up and losing heat through the plumbing. Insulate both hot and cold lines. Wrap all of the accessible hot line and at least three feet of the cold line back from the heater (leave unions uncovered for access and early leak detection). Easy maintenance: Don't buy any tank that does not give you easy access to the sacrificial anode. If you don't see its hex head on top of the tank or if it's not incorporated into the hot outlet, look for a different heater.
When you hook up the T&P drain line, use a flex-connection or union at the T&P. This will make it easy to replace the valve should it fail during inspection. Run the T&P line so it ends in a visible spot. If it leaks, you want to know it. Be sure to run the T&P line separately, not into the drain pan where collected water could ruin heater feet.
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So what's a self-respecting water heater installer to do? Instead of competing for work on the basis of price alone, why not give your clients the option of superior work, which will save them money, generate steady work for you, and prevent all those headaches that come with misbehaving water heaters. Try the following:
Set up the tank for easy flushing. Remove the plastic drain valve and replace it with a threaded brass ball valve. Use a plastic-lined steel nipple between the valve and the tank; add a brass hose adapter at the other end. Then remove the standard straight dip tube from the cold water inlet and install one that is curved at the lower end. Aim this curve toward the back of the tank. When you open the drain (with the water supply kept on), the swirling action created by the dip tube/ball valve combination sweeps sediment up and out the drain.| Dan Holohan - [Intro] | [Email] | [Website] |
| The views expressed in this article are those of the individual author and do not necessarily reflect the views of the management or staff of MasterPlumbers.com |
