Another factor the unknowing never take into consideration is the friction loss of the pipe and fittings and valves the effluent flows past.

There is also something called back pressure.

The actual basin (sump) can be round, square or rectangle and made from cast iron steel, cement (built in), fiberglass either bolted, flanged or welded or one piece design.

Now that the easy part has been designed, here comes the complicated part. You must decide what kind of bells and whistles the LMP can put on it to make it as fool proof as possible for the owner to understand.

We should decide if we need a single station alarm OR multi panels like the kitchen/bed rooms or just the basement.

What kind of vibration control are we going to use between the pump discharge and drainage piping stainless steel hose screwed or threaded?

How many horse power do we decide to use? We can go from 1/2 HP on up.

What size INLET do we want for this system 3" or 4" and should the discharge pipe be only 2" 3" or 4" and what is the velocity we are trying to achieve?

We know the check valve ideally should be placed on a 45 degree angle BUT what type of check valve shall we use? Do we have lead and lag capabilities?

Should we have a high/low water alarm (don't want the pumps running dry)?

Should we have a manhole cover for service and inspection?

Maybe we can call a plumbing supply house or home center and say "give me a pump" like so many non skilled and unlicensed plumbers are doing now.

DEMAND TO SEE the LICENSE for your protection.