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Topic ClosedWhistling Noise When Hot Water Tap Turned On

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41EwingA View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Topic: Whistling Noise When Hot Water Tap Turned On
    Posted: 18-Jul-2005 at 3:37am
Recently I replaced both my hot and cold water tap washers. They stopped the
drippings. But now every time I turn on the hot water, there is this
whistling noise and it is quite loud. Could you please let me know what is
the problem and how to get rid of the rather annoying and loud noise. The
cold water side does not generate any noise.

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CincinnatiPlumbing View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18-Jul-2005 at 9:27am
The whistling is most likely caused by the heat of the water making the washer expand. You could try tightening the washer or most likely will need to get a thicker and/or stiffer washer.

Good luck!

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Retired plbg View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18-Jul-2005 at 12:35pm
You might have high water press. too.

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41EwingA View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18-Jul-2005 at 3:39pm
Thank you for your help.

In Australia our hardware is slightly different in that our washer comes as a single piece attached to a metal or PVC body for slotting in and isn't like that in the States where you screw it on. As such I could not really tighten it.

Regarding water pressure, I wonder why the cold water tap when turn on (remembering that the washer was changed at the same time as that in the hot water tape) does not make the same noise.

Grateful for any further help/assistance.

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Robert Stephen Morton View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18-Jul-2005 at 6:14pm
Did you reseat the tap with a proffessional reseater or one of those tapered handyman reseater? or one with sandpaper??
Did you use one of those domed washers?
This Forum is an International Forum & it does help if the poster indicates from where the poster eminates.

Bob

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41EwingA View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18-Jul-2005 at 6:27pm
Bob

Thanks.

No reseatting was carried out. But I did use the dome type of washers

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Robert Stephen Morton View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18-Jul-2005 at 9:40pm
41ewinga, We replace them all the time because of just that. Reseat the taps using a proffessional reseating tool & use Hydroseal valves or at least flat valves (washers)
The dome ones form to the shape of the seat & the centre section protrudes down the body. When the tap is turned on water is squeezed up through between the protrusion & the body causing a whistling noise.
The best fix is to reseat properly & replace the tap top with C/D taps, 3/4 turn Ram are great. I have had them in since 1986 with no reseating since installation.
I strongly suggest that you get a reputable licensed plumber to do this though.

Bob
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Selgas View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18-Jul-2005 at 10:22pm
Bob

I am right behind you on this one the same problem is commonplace down here as well.

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41EwingA View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19-Jul-2005 at 2:24am
Bob & Peter

Thanks for your help and support.

Bob, (pardon my ignorance being a first timer DIY nut) you mentioned "replace tap top with C/D taps, 3/4 turn Ram...." Could you please explain what are these?

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Robert Stephen Morton View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19-Jul-2005 at 11:01am
Go to your local Reece Store & ask for information on Ram 3/4 turn Ceramic disk taps.
Bob
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41EwingA View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20-Jul-2005 at 4:30am
Bob

Will do that. Thank you

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rldragon2003 View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03-Aug-2005 at 6:10pm
Hi Bob,

I have the similar problem in Sydney, I did reseat the tap with one of those tapered handyman reseater($30),also one with sandpaper($11)
from Hardware shop and replace the washers SERVERAL TIMES. The hot water tap still has water hammer/dripping problems.

I know I need to reseat the seat, is Hydroseal reseater(battery power)considered a proffessional reseater?

I just wonder what is the different between handyman/proffessional reseater? Hydroseal reseater

Regards

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Robert Stephen Morton View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03-Aug-2005 at 9:09pm
rldragon2003. If you look at those tapered pieces of **** you will notice that they can be screwed into a body out of alignment, the sand paper also scores the seat, so you end up with a seat that looks great but not square to the spindle, chuck in a domed washer & they will seal for a while.
Now comes the proffessional Hydroseal reseater in a battery powered drill & the seat is polished if used properly & square to the spindle, use a flat washer - preferably a hydroseal washer & the job is done properly.
Alternativly, properly install a set of C/D tapware & you won't touch them again for years.
HOWEVER if you have reseated too far already then there is not enough seat to be reseating. You will go through the seat & the tap will be U/S.
Be carefull with the Hydroseal reseater as they are pretty quick.
The Hydroseal reseater screws into the tap so it must be parralell to the spindle & the cutter head spins as though it is a lathe.
The cost of the hydroseal reseater & a decent battery drill would not be cost effective unless you have many taps to reseat. You will also make mistakes & they will be expensive to fix.

Bob
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rldragon2003 View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03-Aug-2005 at 10:03pm
Hi Bob,

If I want to install a set of C/D tapware, do I still need to reseat the seat before the installion? and it can be done DIY?

Regards

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Robert Stephen Morton View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04-Aug-2005 at 10:58am
Depending on your level of competency.
And yes the seat has to be reseated.
Bob
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41EwingA View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08-Aug-2005 at 4:25pm
Bob

You sounded like a true blue Aussie. Could you tell me what you think of Aqualoc tap valves (an Aussie invention, I believe) and whether they are value for money for domestic use at A$31.00 a pair compared with other tap valves at A$2.50 each at the most.

Regards

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